Tirrenic coast tourist guide: 75 km east of Palermo and right in the middle of the northern coast, Cefalù (14,000 inhabitants) is a charming seaside town built on the site of an ancient Sicanian and Greek settlement, beneath the steep mountain Rupe. Nestled between this almost 300m high rock and the coast, the medieval houses and winding narrow streets, dominated by the mighty cathedral that makes them seem toys, hardly changed over centuries. A picturesque old fishing harbour, delightful restaurants overlooking a rocky coast and the long sandy beach add to the attractions of this seaside resort, which due to its increasing importance is sometimes called "Taormina of the North".

The construction of the cathedral, one of the greatest churches of southern Europe and masterpiece of the Arab-Norman era, began in 1131 during the Norman reign of Roger (Ruggero) II. The cathedral features a large icon of Christ in the apse as well as magnificent Byzantine gold mosaics. Cefalù's mountain boasts the ruins of a large Norman fortress and of the ancient Sicanian-Greek "Temple of Diana" - except for an Arab washhouse in the centre the only remains of ancient settlements. The summit with its breath-taking view of the town, cathedral, mountains and the sea with the Aeolian Islands, is well worth the climb, and by night the illuminated mountain and cathedral offer a spectacular panorama, reminding you of Cefalù's medieval splendour.

Only 15km towards the countryside in the south, the pilgrimage church "Santuario di Gibilmanna" is situated on approx. 1,000m, the lower mountain range of the "Parco delle Madonie", a nature reserve covering approx. 40,000 hectares of almond, olive and chestnut trees, oaks and beeches - home for wildcats and eagles. Further to the south the peaks reach up to 2,000m, ideal for skiing. Point of departure for winter sports activities as well as for trekking tours of all levels is the mountain village Isnello, dominated by a medieval castle. Main town of the Madonie is picturesque Petralia Sottana, perched on a crest of 1,000m and offering excellent views.

To the east another beautiful nature reserve, the "Parco dei Nébrodi" (with 86,000 hectares among the largest national parks in Europe) stretches in the hinterland of the coastline between Sant'Agata di Militello (with "Museo dei Nébrodi") and Tíndari. This park was opened in 1993 to protect the characteristic dense forests, where you can still meet wild black pigs. As an alternative to trekking excursions, both nature reserves can be explored on horseback. The horses bred in San Fratello are famous all over Sicily and many of the "agriturismi" (farm holiday resorts) offer this option. Back to the coast from the Nébrodi you may also visit Capo d'Orlando, popular seaside resort with its "ancient festival of the fishermen", a lovely procession of boats round the cape (on 15 August).

Approx. 40km eastwards, at the top of a 280m high cliff lies Tíndari, the ancient Tyndaris, and at its feet the amazing "Mare Secco" (dry sea), strips of white sandy beach contrasting with the blue of small sea ponds - an enchanting lagoon. The archaeological site of Tyndaris and the pilgrimage church of the "Black Madonna" are both situated on top of the rock - featuring a unique panorama of the sea and the Aeolian Islands. Tyndaris was one of the most recent Greek colonies of the islands, founded by Dionysios I of Syracuse in 396 B.C. to safeguard the north coast against Carthaginian attacks.

The town grew quickly and soon had more than 5,000 citizens. During the Roman period it blossomed once again - as witnessed by the large number of buildings from that time, but was destroyed by the Saracens in 836. Among the interesting findings are parts of the basilica and the town-wall, a picturesque gate, mosaic pavements of an ancient villa and the magnificently situated theatre, where Greek tragedies are performed in June. According to legend the wooden statue of the Black Virgin Mary is of oriental origin and came to Sicily from Constantinople in the eighth or ninth centuries. It is said to have miraculous powers and a chapel, the "Sanctuary of the Madonna Nera" was built, which was destroyed by pirates in the 16th century and replaced by a new one. The present church, the dome of which can be seen from afar, is a new building erected in the 1950s only and attracts pilgrims from all over Sicily. The main festival in honour of the Black Madonna takes place on 8 September.

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